One of the most common car-related problems is car body rot since all body panels are made of steel. Metal exposed to moisture and air begins to oxidize and rust. Whether you want to sell a car or keep it to yourself; You need to think about removing these rusts and decay. Repairing cars and repainting these parts is not a difficult task, but it’s time-consuming; you can take your car to the repair store or fix it yourself. If you decide to deal with it yourself, consider the following tip first.
To avoid any possible injuries and damages to your body, put safety first in your projects. Don’t forget to wear safety gloves , safety glasses and a long-sleeved shirt to protect your arm. Ronix safety gloves and Ronix branded safety glasses provide you with optimum safety.
Tools You Need to Get this Job Done
Parts and Materials, You Need to Get the Job Done
- Painter’s Tape
- Sandpaper with various grades (80, 400, 600)
- Tack Rag
- Body Filler
- Base Coat Paint
- Mineral Spirits
- Paint Spray
How to Repair and Remove Rust Damage Only in 10 Steps
- Removing Rust and Paint
Distinguish the rusted body part with painter’s tape; use Ronix angle grinder to remove paint and old rust from the car body surface. You can also accomplish this task with 80-grit sandpaper and a wire brush, but the job gets much harder. If you can’t reach easily, use a wire brush or hand scraper to remove all dirt and rust.
- Repairing with Glass Fiber Gel
Glass fiber gel strongly repairs the surface. Mix the glass gel and the hardener, then press the mixture into the damaged area. After 15 minutes, it starts to get hard, and after almost an hour, you can sand the surface.
- Sanding the Extra Glass Fiber
If there is extra fiber gel pushed out from the rust holes, use Ronix angle grinder and the flapper wheel for sanding it off. The hole surface should be a little recessed so that you can fill it with smooth body filler.
- Applying Body Filler
Mix your body filler with a suitable amount of hardener, then use a flat spreader to press the mixture of filler and hardener into the holes on the rusted surface. Try to flatten the hole surface as much as possible so that you sand it less later. Remember to apply enough filler to avoid leaving any spots, scratches, and pinholes on the body surface.
- Sanding the Body Smoothly
This step is the most time and energy-consuming step of bodywork since you should sand the body surface before painting it. Start with Ronix orbital sander and sand off any excess body filler. If the body filler isn’t too hard, the sander sands it fast, but in case it’s hardened, you need to put more effort into sanding it. You can also use 400-grit sandpaper or a sanding block to make sure you don’t face a wavy surface finally.
- Cleaning the Job Area
Use the tack rag and mineral spirits to remove and clean dirt or grimes since any fingerprints, specs of oil, and dust cause spots. So, cleanliness is highly important from this step on.
- Applying primer
Spray a thin coating of primer over the entire area. Repeat this step again and again for some minutes to make a slightly thicker coating, and then let it dry.
- Wet Sanding
The primed area needs to be wet, sanded, and feathered, then wipe it clean and allow it to dry; finally, spray another layer of primer on it. Use 600-grit sandpaper, a higher grade one or the Ronix branded orbital sander at the end of this step.
- Spraying the Base Coat
Use a base coat (the color paint) and cover it with a protective layer of topcoat (the colorless paint); you can also spray two or three layers of paint without the topcoat. Spray two or three thin coatings of paint over the primer coating, repaired area, and original paint.
- Rubbing Out and Polishing the Paint
Take advantage of Ronix electric polisher to rub and polish the paint layer; this helps you get a glossy finish. Start with wet sanding, spray another layer of paint and polish it to achieve full gloss. Congrats, you are done!